Episode 14 features Australian surf journalist Nick Carroll.
Nick Carroll, also known as ‘Tom’s brother,’ is a surfing institution. He’s been scribbling words about our terrible and wonderful sport for decades. As long as I’ve been alive, which is easy to forget because he’s one of those humans who seem perpetually youthful. Frustratingly so. There’s little worse than a man on the cusp of sixty who looks better than me with his shirt off.
Nick and I rambled on for an hour and a half about myriad topics. I barely looked at my notes this time, something I’m finding is a hallmark of a good episode. Back and forth banter plays so much better than question/answer.
Nick and I talked about the surf world’s hatred of Brazilians, the WSL vanilla imperative, white privilege, gender dynamics, the female competitive drive, chasing a toxic fantasy, lying about your height, maintaining a lifelong love of surfing, surf culture, snorting coke, smoking dope, and having sex with a wide range of women.